Riding Day 30 - Halfway!

OK, we really don't know exactly what the halfway point is, but we know that the whole ride is pretty close to 4,000 miles, and at the end of today we were at 2,002, so that means that today we celebrate the halfway point. It seems about right, since we're about halfway across North Dakota (in Stanton), and ND is about halfway across the US. It's a good psychological boost. I always celebrate in my head when we reach the halfway point each day. This is a much bigger version of that.

Today we were travelling east in a pretty strong and gusty SSE wind all day, so it wasn't easy, but it was so much better than yesterday that we aren't complaining at all!

Stanton celebrates being the home of Sakakawea (formerly spelled Sacajawea), of Lewis and Clark expedition fame, and we are camped in Sakakawea Park on the Knife River. Rich and I arrived before Kathy and Cindy today, and we quickly plunged into the river for a refreshing swim. It felt great, as the weather was approaching 90 degrees.

No photos today. The internet connection is slow, and it's late. Goodnight!

Riding Day 29 -- Headwinds!

The wind was against us from the moment we rode eastward out of Watford City, ND this morning at 6:45. After about 20 miles we turned south, almost directly into the wind. Headwinds are very tough on cyclists, both physically and psychologically. They have pretty much the same physical efect as hills, but hills are a known quantity, and they end at a defined point. Wind is something you can't see, and it can go on seemingly forever. It just doesn't seem fair!

Because of the wind, we decided to end our ride in Killdeer, after "only" 63 miles, rather than riding the full 84 miles to Halliday. By the time we reached Killdeer the headwind was 21 mph, with gusts up to 31. We'll have to make up the distance somewhere in ND, or we'll fall another day behind. That wouldn't be a tragedy, but we'd like to keep as close to our schedule as we can. I was very grateful today for Rich as well as for Kathy and Cindy. Rich and I traded the lead every mile, as we often do, with the second rider following very closely behind in order to take advantage of the draft. The wind was so strong today that the second rider still felt it, but nowhere near as strongly. Kathy and Cindy checked on us periodically, and they secured a campsite in Killdeer so that we have a place to rest our weary bones tonight. As always, they also fed us a delicious and nutritious dinner.

Something else that made the day tough was pretty heavy traffic, a great deal of it being very large trucks. The traffic keeps us on our toes, and it also prevents us from taking the most advantageous drafting position, usually slightly to one side or the other of the lead rider. The traffic is apparently largely due to the booming oil exploration in western ND. Oil wells and drilling derricks are frequently visible. We talked to the leader of a westbound cycling expedition, and he said tht before the oil boom, these were pretty sleepy roads.

The terrain today was pretty typical of the last several days: rolling prairie, some in crops and some in cattle. There was on plunge of a couple of miles down to the Little Missouri River, followed by a very steep climb back out again. Everything contiues very green.

More winds are predicted for tomorrow, but staring to taper off. Wish us luck!

Riding Day 28 - Welcome to North Dakota

We entered North Dakota at 7:30 a.m. today, soon crossed the wide Yellowstone River, and started making our way across the state. So far, it looks a lot like eastern Montana, except the rolling hills are smaller, and almost all of the land is in crops. Also, the traffic is much heavier, but the roads have had good shoulders, so all is well.

We only had about 45 miles to ride today, to Watford City, so we were here by 11:00, even with the repair of my first flat tire of the trip, and with some light headwinds. Tomorrow we ride over 80 miles, and the headwinds are predicted to be much stronger, so we plan to leave earlier than usual in order to take advantage of the lighter winds in the morning. Fortunately, we heard about some road construction on our planned route, with about 8 miles of very rough road. Unfortunately, our planned detour will require that we ride about 9 miles farther!

Blogger refuses to upload photos from my computer today, so you will have to imagine my incredibly artistic shot of Rich standing by the sign welcoming us to North Dakota.

Layover Day in Sidney, MT

From the moment we arrived in Montana over a week ago, it was clear to us that this is a big state for personal fireworks. The stands are everywhere, and lots of people are getting a jump on the Fourth of July. However, the pictured sign here in Sidney is a bit over the top, don't you think? Our country is rightfully worried about Iran, North Korea, and various terrorist organizations developing nuclear weapons. It turns out that all those folks would need to do would be to come to Montana and see Frank, and they can get what they want at bargain prices!

Last night after checking into our too-expensive hotel, we discovered a nice county park on the Yellowstone River just north of town, so we moved out here this morning and have had a very pleasant day, mosquitoes notwithstanding. It is a bit disconcerting to know that we are heading deeper into mosquito country over the next couple of weeks. Thank goodness for Deet.

Speaking of the county park, we are now in Richland County. Yesterday we passed through the small community of Richey, and in Utah we stayed in Rich County. Needless to say, Rich has been feeling very affirmed by all this, and I have been feeling increasingly neglected -- no places named Joe anything. Then I suddenly felt better when I realized that this whole state is named after Joe Montana, right?

Enough rambling. See you tomorrow, in North Dakota.

Riding Day 27 - What else can I say about eastern Montana?

Circle to Sidney, 75 miles. Thunderstorms predicted, but none materialized, except for the big one in the middle of the night in Circle. Some flat riding, but mostly the same continuous series of ups and downs, culminating in a nice downhill run into Sidney, near the banks of the Yellowstone River. The Yellowstone forms the Montana-North Dakota boundary in these parts. Tonight we're paying too much for a hotel room because the 3 RV parks in town are a) full and b) scuzzy. Tomorrow (a rest day) we'll move to a primitive campsite in a county park north of town.

Rich seems to be getting stronger every day on the bike. I'm not, but I hold my own, except on the climbs.

Right now I'm looking forward to being out of the Great Plains, but I know we still have many more days here. I need to get re-inspired!

Riding Day 26 - The Land of Blue-Green Insulators

So we left Jordan, MT, about 6:50 this morning, and one of the first things we noticed was that the high-voltage electric wires were hanging from blue-green glass insulators, rather than the usual ceramic. With the sun behind them, they glowed quite attractively. That was one of the highlights of our ride, which was otherwise a continuously up and down 68 miles to Circle, which we finished before noon. Highway 200 across southeastern Montana could compete with Hwy 50 in Nevada for "Loneliest Road." There were a few oncoming cars and trucks, but we had just a single eastbound vehicle pass us in the first hour of riding, and perhaps a half dozen in the second hour. The ag activity is gradually shifting from grazing to crops. That's somewhat less interesting, because alfalfa and corn don't scare as easily as cattle. Not that we try to scare the cattle, of course -- they just seem to be quite nervous about us.

We're spending the night in the second successive quite bleak but relatively empty RV "park." Last night Kathy and I were up a little after 1:00 a.m., rescuing our awning from a pretty strong thunderstorm. If that happens tonight, it's Rich and Cindy's turn! Thunderstorms are predicted on and off all day tomorrow. Not the greatest weather for biking across the high plains. I hope Rich and I don't spend any time lying in a ditch, waiting for the lightning to pass.

Riding Day 25 - More High Prairie

76 miles today, from Winnett to Jordan, MT. Another day, another tiny county seat with small stores and friendly folk. We're riding through continually rolling high prairie, with long climbs and descents, most of them pretty gentle, and very little traffic. Almost all of the land is pasture for cattle and some horses, but there are occasional fields of crops, mostly hay or wheat. We kept the pace moderate, and my leg was fine, but we still finished the 76 miles by 1:30 p.m., after a 6:40 a.m. start.

One of today's photos is of Rich standi

ng in front of the entirety of Sand Springs, MT, the only community between Winnett and Jordan. Sand Springs consists of a Post Office, gas station, and a small, poorly provisioned general store. The gas pump has a sign that says, "We can no longer take credit cards. Please note the number of gallons you pump, and we will figure the amount." The friendly store keeper has been there since 1956, and I'm pretty sure some of the merchandise has been there longer. If you stop in, be sure to sign the guest book, and look for our names on 6/24/2010. If there's a table set up with a cribbage board and a deck of cards, be assured that the guy who brings the mail is still playing at lunch with the postal clerk.

Riding Day 24 - The Quadriceps Feels Pretty Good!

The 44 miles today from Roundup to Winnett, MT, went cautiously and easily, given yesterday's pulled muscle. I managed to avoid any twinges at all, we finished the ride in 3 1/2 hours, and we discovered that the easier pace can be more enjoyable. Fortunately, cycling doesn't involve any explosive movements (since we aren't sprinting in the Tour de France). It was a great relief. Thanks for everyone's well wishes, thanks to ice and ibuprofen, and thanks to Rich for leading the way. I wonder how long he'll let me get away with drafting him.

Today's photo exemplifies the high prairie we biked through for much of the day. Notice how the cattle are running away from me? I seem to have that effect on them. So much for my charm and animal magnetism.

Today also marked a major milestone. It was our last day of riding north! Our first 24 days of riding have been about equally split between eastbound and northbound. From now on we are almost exclusively eastbound. That feels very good, like we are really headed for Maine.

Riding Day 23 - A Setback, Hopefully Minor

We headed north from Billings today, hoping to do the 96 miles to Winnett, thus making up the day we lost in Garden City. Unfortunately, after about 27 miles I suffered a slight muscle pull in my left quadriceps. It's the same area where I felt some strain on Friday, climbing the Beartooth Highway. I did some stretches, but could not put much effort into pedaling without pain. So we resumed at a slow pace and cut our ride in half, arriving at Roundup (which was our destination for the day on our original itinerary). I'm treating it with ice and "Vitamin I," and it's actually feeling OK this evening. Tomorrow we'll take it easy for the short ride to Winnett and see how it goes.

Today's ride started by climbing out of Billings through lush rolling prairie, then transitioned to a range of hills with rocky ledges, pine forests, and cattle ranches -- pure cowboy country. Tonight we're camped in a city park on the Musselshell River -- no services, no hookups, but very pretty, especially when compared to the really raunchy RV parks in town.

A sad personal note: I learned yesterday that my Aunt Ruth passed away on Sunday in Wisconsin. She was my father's last surviving sibling, the last of that generation. I have fond memories of her, especially when my family used to visit them on their dairy farm. We pass this way but once, and she did a very fine job of it.

Going to the Dogs

Layover day in Billings. Haircuts, grocery shopping, financial activity, etc. Our KOA seems to be ground zero for folks who've arrived for a big dog show. Unfortunately, the show was canceled because yesterday's tornado blew the roof off the local arena, but we have had a continuous parade of absolutely beautiful dogs past our campsite all afternoon and evening. Also unfortunately, the folks right across the lane have a pen full of miniature dachshunds whose job it is to yap at every dog that passes by. They are excellent at their job. I hope they sleep well, and soon.

Day 22 - Chuck's Last Day

Red Lodge to Billings today, certainly the easiest 56 miles we've done. It was a gradual downhill almost all the way, and we covered it in just over 3 1/2 miles, including breaks. Not only that, the weather was warm for the first time in a couple of weeks. Rich and I got to Billings in time to attend a program and potluck at the local Quaker Meeting. Kathy and Cindy had gotten there in time for worship as well. As always, it was a warm and friendly gathering. Also attending was Kristy Updegraff from Sacramento, who was there visiting family.

Today was Chuck's last day riding with us. Tomorrow he and Janet leave for their home in Spokane, probably with some stops for bike riding together en route. We will miss them greatly, as they really have been a part of this ride. Showing what generous people they are, they treated us to dinner at the local Olive Garden. (Left to right in the photo are Rich, Cindy, Janet, Chuck, and Kathy.) Those of you who know Rich's dietary regime will know that he was delighted with the bottomless salad bowl there!

Tomorrow is a layover day, and then Rich and I, with Kathy, Cindy, and Ginger in support, will continue eastward. We have now covered just shy of 1,500 miles of the 4,000 mile trip. That feels pretty amazing.

The end of the afternoon was spiced up by tornado and severe thunderstorm warnings. The local siren sounded, and we all evacuated the motor home and sought shelter in the main campground building. Fortunately, all we experienced directly were some very dramatic skies, lots of lightning and thunder, and some heavy rain. We now have experienced rain, hail, cold, snow, heat, and nearby tornadoes on this trip. Is anything else left?

Riding Day 21 - The Beartooth Highway

From Cooke City to Red Lodge, Montana, is a 66 mile ride. Not too bad, right? Wrong. The route goes over the Beartooth Highway, which Charles Kuralt called the most scenic road in America. The Highway climbs to just a few pennies shy of 11,000 feet, which makes it by far the highest elevation on our trip. It was a very tough climb, with repeated switchbacks. Before we reached the top we were flanked by snowbanks, some of which were several feet tall. The pass is above treeline, in open tundra. For much of the last several miles of the climb we were treated to absolutely stunning views of snow-capped mountains stretching all the way to distant horizons. Of course, the vistas were of the type that is impossible to capture in a photograph, but the accompanying picture is an attempt. We were all very proud to make the summit.

The ride down the north side into Red Lodge is equally spectacular, in a completely different way. It descends 5,500 feet in 30 miles, most of that in the first 15 miles, in countless switchbacks that hug the side of a deep, open canyon. It's surely the most spectacular downhill I've ever done.

Tonight we are camped in Red Lodge. The peaks of the Rockies are still visible in the distance, but we have made our transition to the Great Plains.

Riding Day 20 - To..

To wake up to a light blanket of snow in our campground.

To brush the snow off our bikes before we start.

To fall on the icy road before even leaving the campground.

To discover our first road for the day is closed due to ice and snow.

To hang out in the cafeteria at Canyon Village, drinking coffee and using our laptops until the road opened at noon.

To climb Dunraven Pass on our bikes, the same road I have skied up in the winter. To see all the way to the Tetons.

To descend 2,700 feet down the north side of Dunraven Pass, overwhelmed by the sudden vistas to the northwest and then the northeast.

To look down on a hawk or eagle soaring below us in the depths of a canyon.

To ride the length of the Lamar Valley, drinking in the greenness, the river, the herds of bison, the mountains both close and distant.

To finish the ride in a narrow wooded valley with high peaks ahead and to each side, and deer blending into the trees.

To appreciate the courtesy of so many drivers.

To marvel at the hospitality of Bob Johnston, who welcomed us into his home in the mountains outside of Cooke City, Montana.

To realize again and again how amazingly privileged we are.

Riding Day 19 - No Rain!

After having significant amounts of rain for four of the last five days of biking, it was wonderful not to have any today. Of course, it did snow almost all day, but that was much preferable to rain, which soaks you.

We rode 50+ miles in Yellowstone, from Lewis Lake to Canyon Village. Due to the cold, we didn't do a lot of sightseeing, but we did stop for a brief visit to a thermal area and made a short side trip to the brink of the upper falls of the Yellowstone River.

Wildlife sightings included several elk and bison. The Hayden Valley was particularly beautiful , but some vicious crosswinds kept our eyes mostly on the road and the traffic.

All in all, the ride in the cold and snow was pretty good. We are dressed for it, we didn't get wet, and we were at our destination in time for lunch! And for another major milestone, we crossed the Continental Divide. Can the Atlantic be far away? (Yes)

Riding Day 18 - A Utah Rancher Picks Up Two Men in Tights

So Rich and I were riding north from Grand Teton National Park toward Yellowstone. At the top of a several-mile-long grade we cam upon a construction zone with a long line of cars and RVs waiting to be escorted down the hill. Feeling somewhat smug, we made our way to the front of the line, passing about 50 lined-up vehicles.

When we got to the front, the man who was controlling the traffic told us that we would have to be driven through the one-way traffic area. He directed us to the pilot vehicle, which was just beginning to load up the two Dutch tourists we had seen the day before -- and there was only room for their two bikes! We were told we would have to wait for the next round, which would be "about 20 minutes ." About then the traffic was getting ready to move, and the pilot vehicle moved into position, followed by the first several vehicles in line. About the fifth vehicle was a full-sized open-bed pickup truck, with a man and woman in the cab. Rich stuck out out his thumb. Sure enough, the cowboy-hatted drive nodded, and we quickly loaded our bikes and ourselves into the bed of his truck and he drove us the several miles down the hill. When we were back to two-way traffic, the rancher stopped and we got out, with profuse thanks, to continue on our way.

The day had started with a wonderful ride through Grand Teton National Park. The morning light was bathing the peaks, glistening off the snow and highlighting every rocky crag. Various layers and streaks of low clouds moved across the face of the range, alternately framing and obscuring the stunning peaks and precipices. We made full use of the new bike trail, and we saw a few elk along the way, always across the fields, just at the tree line.

After the construction zone Rich and I stopped to eat our lunch at a picnic table at a gas station and store, where we were soon found by the Dutch couple, and then by another man who was riding from Oregon to Virginia. The conversations were fun. The Dutch couple were in the first few weeks of a five-month tour, on their first visit to the States.

Soon thereafter we entered Yellowstone and started a substantial climb. In the latter stages of of the climb we paralleled the Lewis River, with its raging cataracts, first deep in its canyon, then right next to the road. The sky was getting darker, then the thunder started to roll, and soon the rain was spattering lightly. While we stopped to put on our rain gear, the rain intensified, soon turning to hail. We hightailed it across the road to what shelter we could find at the face of a low cliff. The hail grew larger and was stinging, when Kathy, Cindy, and Janet showed up in the motor home, checking on our welfare.

About that time the hail let up, and we biked the last few miles to the Lewis Lake campground where the motor home was waiting, warm and dry. Chuck was several miles behind us, but also made it OK. We're in Yellowstone for the next two days! It's rained on us for at least four of the last five days, two days with hail! And most of the riding has been magnificent.

Whenever it's rainy and windy

I've no use for Susan and Mindy.

When we're cold and we're wet

It's a safe and sure bet

That along will come Kathy and Cindy!

Day Off in Jackson

Short entry today. We had a scheduled day off in Jackson, WY, during which we enjoyed several hours of magnificent Grand Teton National Park, did some miscellaneous shopping, got some RV repairs done, and had a very nice dinner. Now in the evening we're all in the motor home, catching up on e-mail, etc, and listening to the rain and the thunder. We hope it passes by morning!

The photo is Rich and Cindy enjoying the view and the ambiance at Jenny Lake in the Natl Park.

Riding Day 17 - Star Valley, Snake River, & Friends

Our first day without rain since Wednesday! Immediately after leaving Afton, WY, we plunged into low overcast and/or fog, where we remained for about 35 miles. The chill and grayness didn't obscure the beauty of the Star Valley, a rich and very active agricultural area in Western Wyoming, and home of Rulon Garnder, two-time Olympic gold medalist in Greco-Roman wrestling.

We then reached the town of Alpine, the sun broke through, and we began making our way up the Snake River Canyon. If you have a chance, do this road, preferably in a northerly direction, and stop often. It is truly spectacular. Readers of this blog may tire of me speaking of the natural beauty we are seeing, but this stretch of road must rank up there with the most scenic anywhere. We are all so blessed to be living on this beautiful earth, and Rich, Chuck, and I are doubly blessed to be seeing it by bicycle.

As luck would have it, Ralph Hughes, the Director of the Sacramento Master Singers, was traveling in the area with his parents, Glenn and Sybil, and we had arranged to meet for a picnic lunch, wherever we happened to meet. So 11:30 was approaching, and Rich and I were watching ahead for Ralph's white Town and Country mini-van, while at the same time expecting Kathy and Cindy to appear in our rear-view mirrors. Suddenly, around a turn ahead of us, a white Town and Country appeared, and there was no question who it was, because the driver was aiming a camera at us (don't try this at home). Rich and I pulled over, and soon Ralph pulled up behind us, having managed a u-turn, hopefully not while still holding the camera. Soon Kathy and Cindy joined us, and we had a fine lunch, including some muffins Ralph had purchased at The Bunnery in Jackson -- now one of our must-see places on our day off tomorrow.

It's very moving that good friends are eager to meet us and share in our adventures. We are extraordinarily fortunate to be able to do what we're doing, and to have so many people taking vicarious pleasure in it. Now if only we could figure out how to have some of those folks vicariously pedal up some hills for us!

Riding Day 16 - Back in the Saddle Again

We awoke to the sound of a hard shower on the roof of the motor home, but it had let up by 7:00, so we rode out of Garden City, UT, en route to Afton, WY, equipped with all the gear and clothing we could muster to face potentially cold and wet weather. Fortunately, the day turned out much more benign than was forecast, and we rolled into Afton before 3:00. We did encounter some rain, including over the second of the two passes of the day, but it was much less severe than it was on Friday. As always, we were strongly supported by our loyal crews, who met us several times during the day to make sure we were OK, and to share lunch.

After 4 nights in California, 6 in Nevada, and 5 in Utah, we went in and out of Idaho before lunch, so it was a 3-state day. Wildlife sightings today included a couple of sandhill cranes and a beaver. As always, the countryside had moments of breathtaking beauty, including snow-capped mountains, amazingly green slopes, lush mountain valleys, and the yellow-green of newly leafing aspen groves set off against the dark evergreens.

79 miles today, 1112 for the trip. On to Jackson!

Rain Delay

Today is an unplanned but well-deserved day off from biking, after yesterday's nightmarish ride. The weather continues cold and rainy, so we're holed up in the motor home hoping the weather will clear by tomorrow.

Note to anyone who may be planning to meet us en-route: This will likely delay us by a day down the line. We'll keep you posted as we go along.

This morning Rich discovered that the bike rental business at our KOA has a bike shop, and that the proprietor is a wonderful semi-retired gentleman named Ben, who was happy to allow us to use his shop to clean up our bikes, replace brake pads that had been work down by all the wet road grit on yesterday's final descent, and generally get the bikes ready for tomorrow.

This is a good opportunity to talk about Chuck Boehme, the third rider in the group (here seen on the right, with Rich, overlooking Utah Lake). Chuck and his wife, Janet, live in Spokane when they are not traveling somewhere around the country or the globe. Chuck is a retired high school assistant principal. Earlier he taught business classes. He is also retired from the US Naval Reserve, where he was a navigation officer on submarines.

Chuck and Janet are both experienced bicycle tourists. They have done numerous tours in the US and Europe. Chuck is a strong rider and a gentle soul. Most often on our riding days he brings up the rear, riding solo, but he always finishes each segment with a smile, and is "doing fine." He never has a complaint, and admonishes us multiple times a day not to wait for him -- yet he never seems far behind. Janet invariably stops whenever she passes us in her van, making sure we are OK and seeing if there is anything we need. Every afternoon she pitches their tent in our campground, and every morning they break camp and pack up before our 7:00 departure. (Today, blessedly, they are waiting out the rain in a motel.)

The Boehmes are also experienced RV operators, since they drive their motor home to and from Tucson every year, where they escape from the Spokane winters. They have had numerous tips for us novices, which have proven very valuable as we learn motor home life. And not the least of the blessings they have brought us is hosting many pre-dinner social hours in our campgrounds.

Chuck and Janet, I'm really glad you're a part of this trip. We'll be sorry when you leave us in Billings.

Riding Day 15 - A Very Hard Day

Perry to Garden City, UT, about 71 miles with a couple of significant climbs, including up beautiful Logan Canyon, along the rushing Logan River. Again we were led by Rich's cousin, Dan, truly a fine person in addition to being a very strong cyclist. On the first climb we struggled with a significant headwind, and at the top it was cold enough that we could see our breath. We then rushed down the beautiful descent, after which we warmed up with coffee, hot chocolate, and breakfast at the Burger King at the bottom.

After a quick tour of Logan, we started up the canyon. A nice lunch stop at a National Forest campground was followed immediately by the start of rainfall that lasted the rest of the day. We have significant rain gear, but weren't equipped for that amount of rain and cold. By the time we reached the summit, it was snowing, my gloves were drenched, Rich's feet were soaked and numb, and we were faced several miles of downhill to Garden City on Bear Lake. Under normal circumstances it would have been a fun and beautiful descent, but the rain was lashing our faces like knives, our cold hands could barely work the brakes, we couldn't allow ourselves to go too fast because of the cold, and the lake was gray and dark. It was a great relief to finally reach the bottom and find Cindy and Kathy in the motor home in the campground where we could dry off and warm up.

Tomorrow's forecast is predicted to be rainy with a high temp of 48 (normal is 73). If that comes true, we'll probably take a layover day here.

On the plus side, we passed 1,000 miles today!

Riding Day 14 - And Now for Something Completely Different

Draper to Perry, UT, 86 miles; rain for the first couple of hours; rendezvoused with Rich's cousin Dan who served as our exceptionally capable guide for the day; toured Temple Square; got chatted up by some missionaries; rode for miles and miles on rural bike trails and roads through wetlands, ag lands, and new housing developments; ate lunch on the back steps of an LDS church; rode through gale-force headwinds, cross-winds, and tail-winds (very little of the latter); got hailed on; finally made it to camp; went out to dinner with Dan and his folks at the best restaurant in northern Utah. We're still on schedule. That's enough. See you tomorrow.

Riding Day 13

Another short day today, 57 miles from Eureka to Draper, Utah. Draper is a southern suburb of Salt Lake City. The day started with a wonderful 10-mile descent, then much of the remainder of the ride was along the west shore of beautiful Utah Lake. We rode through mostly open farm and ranch land, with steep mountains rising above the east shore. Then we suddenly transitioned into housing developments, and soon encountered our first traffic lights since Ely, NV, five riding days ago. We are now in the midst of the most urbanized area we've had since Carson City on Riding Day 5.

We've had a difficult time doing our route planning in the area approaching and through Salt Lake City. Last night Eureka was the only option for a place to stay that allowed for good riding distances, but there were no campgrounds available. Eureka is a pretty depressed town, with several shut-down mines and a large number of vacant and crumbling storefronts. The only economic activity in the area right now seems to be a major EPA cleanup of the old mines. Fortunately, there is a wonderful bed and breakfast, the Tintic Gold Miners Inn, just off the center of town at the top of a long, very steep hill. (Did I mention that the hill was steep?) Margaret (pictured), the owner and proprietor, was a wonderful and gracious host. She provided dinner for an added cost of just $5 per person. The rooms were very spacious, the beds comfortable, the meals were excellent, and the humongous-screen TV was perfect for watching the Lakers-Celtics game. Altogether a very fortuitous lack of a campground!

871 miles through 2 complete weeks of the trip - seems hard to believe!

Reason #2, enhanced

Reason #2 is to be a part of the Ride Against Hunger that Rich and Tim started, and that Rich is continuing solo now that Tim has been injured. A few days ago I was climbing a tough hill, various body parts were hurting, and found myself wondering why I'm doing this, and whether I could do the whole ride. I suddenly came to realize that one of the best things I can do on this ride is to support Rich in his mission to use the ride to raise funds for hunger programs in Sacramento and Stockton. Rich is dedicated to that mission, and seeing him push his body to accomplish it is very inspiring.

Now, I know it's not totally selfless on his part. Rich is a passionate cyclist, he and his wife, Cindy, rode across the country in 2001, and he has been looking forward to doing it again. But Rich is also passionately dedicated to social justice, and to helping the less fortunate. He is recently retired as the director of Catholic Charities in Stockton, where he brought new levels of professionalism and dedication to the programs of that organization, which offers help to anyone in need, regardless of their faith. Rich's fund raising through this trip will bring relief from hunger to many less fortunate people in both Sacramento and Stockton.

Today we turned north toward Yellowstone and rode from Delta to Eureka, Utah. It was just 55 miles, but it was our first day with a headwind most of the way. It wasn't a strong wind, but every shift that I took in front, breaking the wind resistance, was my contribution toward Rich's ride against hunger. If you want to support it, too, send a check to

Catholic Charities, Diocese of Stockton
1106 N. El Dorado Street
Stockton, CA 95202
Please include on your check (Ride Against Hunger)

or

SSIP Building Fund
c/o Bethany Presbyterian Church
5625 24th Street
Sacramento, CA 95822

Riding Day 11 - On the road again

After a layover day yesterday, we left Baker, NV, this morning at 6:55 a.m. MDT, en route to Delta, UT. Seven miles later we entered our third state and our second time zone, two major milestones. The road from Baker to Delta is pretty desolate, though not without beauty. After crossing the state line, we passed a sign saying "Next Services 83 miles." After going over yet another desert range, with a great descent through a rocky canyon, the landscape became increasingly arid, to the point where we were passing a dry alkaline lake bed that stretched for tens of miles to the south. We finally arrived in Delta, after 96 miles or riding on a day that got pretty hot by the time we arrived at 3:00 in the afternoon. As is their wonderful practice, our loyal support team met us on the road for lunch and a chance to refill water bottles, and then had camp all set up when we arrived in Delta at 3:00. What a succession of blessings they are!

761 miles in 11 days of riding - right on schedule!

First layover day

After 10 days of biking, today was our first, and much appreciated, layover day. We're in Baker, NV, just a few miles from Utah. After some worship, a cleaning of the motor home, and tuning up the bikes, we went up the hill to Great Basin National Park, where we just hung out in a beautiful picnic area for a few hours. Our very vigorous activities included reading, napping, crossword puzzles, painting, more napping, and strolling by the swollen streams. A perfect rest day! Then we came back to metropolitan Baker for a very informal barbecue at the bar that doubles as the campground office. Kelly, who runs the place, is a wonderful, down-to-earth guy. Now we're setting our watches an hour ahead, since we enter mountain time in the a.m., and we want to get an early start on a 97 mile day through the desert in the heat tomorrow. I'll let you know how it goes!

Reason #5 - Beauty

I know I’ve spoken quite a bit in this blog about the beauty we’ve been experiencing. Just today I realized that that’s reason #5 (in answer to the title question). We were riding on Hwy 50 from Ely toward Baker, and we had a long straight stretch with snow-covered 13,000-foot Mt. Wheeler looming dramatically over us. Then we went over a moderate rise and emerged at the head of a long valley. We traveled along the upslope on the right side of valley, which spread out to our left, lush and green, to the base of a range of mountains that rose to some snow-covered peaks. To our right, much closer, was a line of rocky, craggy vertical cliffs.

Now, I’ve seen similar scenes before. In fact, Kathy and I drove this highway just two months ago. The difference is that, traveling at bicycle pace and with the ability to look all around, I was able to be immersed in this scene for the better part of half hour, rather than driving through it in a few minutes, with the limited vantage of a windshield and car windows. I began to reflect on all of the different ways in which beauty was presenting itself, most of which I wouldn’t notice from a car, or only notice fleetingly: the aroma of the sage desert, the ever-present bird songs, the seed heads of the low purplish grasses swaying in the wind, and so much more.

Robinson Jeffers said that beauty is God’s signature in the world. If that’s true, then traveling by bicycle is being enveloped in the bosom of the divine.

Day 9 - A little off the top, please

Today was tough, but the riders were strong! 80 miles from Eureka to Ely, with 3 passes of over 7,000 feet, plus one upwards of 6,000. (The base elevation around here is around 4,200 feet.) So none of us would have objected if each of the passes had had a little taken off the top. Still, the scenery continues magnificent, the weather fine, and the wind mostly at our backs. We passed the 600-mile mark today. The days are beginning to blend together, and I've been having to look at my watch to remember what day of the week it is.

We routinely take pictures of the summit signs on the passes, because each one is a major milestone. Here's the first one of the day -- but not the highest.

One more day in Nevada, a layover day (much needed), and then we're into Utah.

Day 8 - Vistas

Day 8 took us from Austin to Eureka, 71 miles with some major climbs, some very fun descents, and more great tailwinds. The vistas of Nevada are so magnificent that it is just breathtaking, and seeing them from a bicycle, outside of the confines of a car, is the way to do it. Trouble is, they are so vast, it is almost impossible to photograph them. The accompanying photo is one of my more successful attempts, but still only gives a taste.

Day 7 - The first week

The evening of Day 7 finds us in Austin, pretty much in the middle of Nevada. The 64 mile ride today consisted of some very long climbs and some very long descents, as we traverse successive "basin ranges" and the intervening valleys. The scenery continues to be glorious, the weather good, the company fine, and the trip altogether as hoped for -- with the exception of a sore butt! Tomorrow I try a new saddle. We'll see.

Yesterday I mentioned how great it was when Janet delivered some ice to the riders. I'm remiss in not giving more credit to all of our wonderful support crew, Kathy and Cindy and Janet. It is truly remarkable to be so well cared for.

Some thoughts on freedom (reason # 4, below). It is amazing and a true blessing to have the freedom to do this trip. Passing a prison outside of Carson City a couple of days ago was a stark reminder of the contrast between the different levels of freedom that people possess. However, in one way I am less than free on this trip, in that my days are prescribed. We rise at 5:30, start biking at 7:00, and spend the bulk of the day in the saddle, making our way to the next stop. It is a very specific discipline, which allows me to utilize my freedom in the way I want. I'm reminded of Dietrich Bonhoeffer, who said that discipline is essential to freedom. He said that freedom without discipline is license. If I have the freedom to do what I want, I still don't get those things done unless I have the discipline to do them. This trip is an excellent example of that.

Day 6 - The Beauty of the Nevada Desert

82 miles today, from Lahontan Reservoir outside of Silver Spring to Middlegate Station (don't look for it on a map -- it's a former Pony Express Station between Fallon and Austin, and probably hasn't changed much from its heyday.) Since leaving Fallon this morning we are traversing "The Loneliest Road," although the passing vehicles are not too infrequent. The worst part is the almost continuous rumble strip which takes up most of the shoulder, forcing us to ride in the traffic lane. Fortunately, most drivers are very courteous and give us a wide berth.

Highway 50 across Nevada is a seemingly endless series of mountain ridges, separated by wide valleys. When you clear the ridge and start down, you can typically see for many miles, well up the next ridge. It's a very dramatic landscape. The ride went well again today. One of the major highlights was in the last 10 miles or so, when Janet (Chuck's wife) delivered some ice to help fill our water bottles. Much appreciated!

I forgot to mention an encounter that happened yesterday. As we passed through Dayton, just northeast of Carson City, we passed a man walking on the side of the road, with signs on his back saying (approximately) "End Corporate Influence" and "Restore Democracy." We stopped and spoke with him, and he told us that he and a partner are doing a relay walk across the country to call attention to the influence of corporations in governmental decision making, especially since the recent Supreme Court decision, and calling for an end to corporation personhood. They had left San Francisco 15 days previously. We wished each other well on our respective journeys.

A very short distance later, two young women were walking together, wearing t-shirts proclaiming that they were part of a pro-life walk across the country. We didn't stop to talk to them.

Tomorrow has us going from Middlegate Station to Austin. Only about 60 miles, but several major climbs.